Channel: Dr Davin Lim

Category: Howto & Style

Tags: lactic acidascorbic acidglycolic acid peelskincarehow to treat pigmentationdermatologistthe ordinaryazelaic acidretinolchemical peelbest skincareskincare acidsskin care tipsdermatologyahasalpha hydroxy acidskojic acidglycolic acidvitamin c skin careskin care hacksbhamelasmamelasma treatmenthealthy skin

Description: instagram.com/drdavinlim For more information on skin care tips & hacks, together with product reviews, & recommendations Skin acids are a group of molecules that can help a myriad of skin conditions. ALPHA hydroxy acids AHAs include lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic & citric acid. Glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, lactic acid can be found in sour milk (oldest peel), whilst citric acid is derived from fruits; hence the blanket name of ‘fruit peels’. (For those who love organic skin care) Uses: Glycolic acid can be useful in the management of acne, blackheads, whiteheads. BHA are better as salicylic acid is both anti-inflammatory and oil soluble. AHAs can be useful in the management of sun damage, wrinkles, pigmentation & as a primer to aid delivery of other acids, & actives like retinol- retinoids. Concentrations: 2-30%, creams, gels, lotions, washes. Start slow, increase as tolerated. Careful: If you have rosacea, sensitive skin, dermatitis Azelaic acid This is an organic acid found in wheat, barley and rye, however this acid is manufactured in a lab environment Works by 1.Killing bacteria 2. Keratolytic 3. Reduces pigmentation - tyrosinase inhibitor 4. Anti-inflammatory Uses - Acne, rosacea, pigmentation. Concentrations: Typically 5-15/20%. Concentrations less than 15% are less irritating cf higher concentrations. Careful: High concentrations. Most benign acid to use. Good for inflamed skin, acne in pregnancy, mild rosacea, some forms of pigmentation (melasma). Ascorbic acid Also known as Vitamin C. pH 2.5-3.5 for highest bioavailability. Potential to cause skin irritation in higher concentrations. Works by Antioxidants reduce UV induced DNA damage. Free radical scavenger Anti-pigment works as a tyrosinase inhibitor Stimulation of fibroblasts to produce dermal collagen Caution: Sensitive skin, rosacea. For patients who have this skin type, start at 10% and SLOWLY increase as tolerated. Retinoid acid Vitamin A derivative. Arguably the most beneficial skin care active as prescribed by physicians & dermatologists. Works by 1.Decreasing sebum or oil 2.Anti-inflammatory 3.Anti -bacterial 4. Helps normalize skin shedding 5.Reduces wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. Caution: sensitive skin, titrate accordingly. How to start? Retinol over retinoids unless prescribed by your doctor. Typical retinol concentrations range from 0.5 to 2.0%. Kojic Acid Is widely used in Asia to improve skin clarity, by reducing pigmentation. This acid is a naturally occurring compound derived from #fungus. (Obviously purified so don't worry, your face won’t be taken over by fungi). Mode of action: Tyrosinase inhibitor, decreasing #melanin production. Clinical application: Melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, brown sunspots. Best applied: At night. If tolerated twice a day. As with all prescription skin care, start slowly, increase as tolerated. How to use: Best compounded by a pharmacist and prescribed by a dermatologist. Ideally Kojic acid works best with combination therapy. Caution: Kojic acid has a high sensitizing potential and hence used in caution in patients with sensitive skin, or inflammatory skin conditions such as #eczema, and seb #dermatitis More on my Instagram account @drdavinlim Dr Davin Lim Dermatologist, Brisbane. Australia Disclaimer: I am a procedural dermatologist, my work consists of surgery, injections, lasers & scary peels- procedures. Skin care advice is given as a general maintenance post procedure or in the context of treating conditions whereby topicals are indicated- example melasma. For topical monotherapy, consider seeing a general practitioner or general dermatologist.